Jewellery - one of the universals, referring to the attributes of personal culture. Many people now can live without clothes, but there is not one of them, who would not have jewelry.

Buryats jewelry (both women and men) attached great importance. They served not only for their intended purpose - to decorate, but also endowed with great symbolic meaning - played the role of amulets - talismans, marked the age and social status of the individual, the individual claimed the transition from one status to another. In the suit, they submitted the forms and proportions of the human figure, forming a single complex, in which every detail is determined by its place in the composition. Badges and pendants jewelry both male and female, tend to be closed forms of the circle, the hemisphere in general composition and in its various fragments and details.

Nomadic way of life dictated the need for a minimal amount of small-sized, multifunctional, durable household goods. Since the nomads raised cattle, the number of his could not be infinite. Buryats traded him for bread, textiles, metal products, or sold for money in the cities of Irkutsk, Verkhneudinsk. With the money ordered and bought jewelry. There are passing values, ie endangered, such as clothing, which can break, go out of fashion, etc. Jewelry also refer to the eternal values, ie than it is ancient, older, the more valuable it is. They are compact. They can be stored in caches, secluded places. Life was full of nomads unforeseen situations: the cattle could fall from the disease, starvation, it could steal enemies, housing could be robbed, destroyed by fire. But a person with decorations and store them away from home, could always count on their state and get out of an emergency, sell or exchange them for items needed him.

Buryat master - Darkhan - enjoyed great respect neighbors, their work, accompanied by the implementation of many ceremonies, presented by some mystery, and most secret and handed down only to initiates. This is clearly seen in the preserved and handed down to the present day myths and legends, as well as special "forge anthems" in honor of "heavenly" patrons craft.

In the Buryat folklore ascribed to them the divine origin and power of the phenomena of the universe is equal to the scale:

"Master of the sky like a white ... you are great as a mountain, like the ocean ... like mountains high, and the furnace to make a hard place! Like the temples of high furnace to make a hard place! White hair is silver to the moon hold on! Red hair is the high mountains hold on! "

There are many ways to handle the source material for the manufacture of jewelry: carving and engraving of stone and metal, grinding, polishing, faceting gemstones. The traditional methods of artistic treatment of metals include filigree, granulation, embossing, notching, casting, mob. Buryat jewelers, using the experience of previous generations, possessed all of these ways. Often the performance of any one type of product knowledge required to master several techniques. The main material that served to make jewelry, it was silver. For people used silver jewelers malosostoyatelnyh lowest sample, the so-called "Polish" for richer ornaments were made of high grade silver-gilt, to know the ordered jewelry from pure gold. Beauty products depend not only on the quality of materials and gemstones, but also from the art masters, able to breathe life into his creation. Old masters meet requests relatives, fellow villagers, they have seen and know their customers - the bride, which was done for the wedding decoration, which had to be "to guard against evil spirits," because the future depended on it kind of a continuation, or the elegantly dressed woman, the mistress and the keeper of the hearth in the house. He knew that things made by his hands, will be passed on from generation to generation - from mother to daughter, from father to son - and with the kind of values, and pass the name of the singer-songwriter. For the master did not exist major and minor details and decorations. Thus, in some women's jewelry, even the invisible spectator parts were covered with subtle patterns. "God sees everything and everywhere," - said the old masters. In their opinion, meant to ease the work of sin is not against the customer, and against his skill and his patron saints. Master did not care about the time spent or costs of materials, the most important thing for him was his name, recognized his talent, skill, and customers, in turn, immensely respected him for it and did not spare.

Products Buryat artists must be seen against the backdrop of the national costume, seeing everything as a whole.

Girl's Jewelry

Girl's decorations were modest - silver earring in the shape of the ring (gariha) 8-12 cm in diameter, rings that are worn on the index and ring fingers (from 2 to 4), silver ring, sometimes with the insertion of the coral. Wearing a ring on his middle finger was considered undesirable, especially if the girl had an older brother. Silver bracelets worn smooth and coral accents, though rich in turquoise and lapis lazuli used. Coral cost was cheaper than the turquoise or malachite, amber is even cheaper cost (Hubal) red and yellow colors. After the revolution of the amber jewelry were the most common, of him doing rings, earrings, but most wore amber necklaces. Girls can wear a broad silk ribbon breast ornaments SUM - silver medallions.

Much attention was paid to decorating the girls' hair. If she was going to naadan ("merrymaking"), a string is attached from the top down silver coins, first 5 - 6 coins in denominations of 100 munge (cents), with a diameter of about 12 cm, then - 4 - 5 Coin $ 50 munge, 8 cm and even lower - dollar coin - Jansa advantage 100 munge.

Jansa brought from Mongolia, on the face was a picture of a bird Garuuda. Вместо яншаа в последние предреволюционные годы использовали монеты достоинством в 100 мунгэ отечественного производства с изображением царя Николая. Монеты к косе привязывали тоненькими ремешками (тамhан) из кожи косули. Также вплетали косоплетку (искусственную косу) из шелковой крученой нити черного цвета-гогшоо. Украшение косы было сложным делом, поэтому девушка прибегала к помощи матери, сестры, тети. В обычное время в косу, удлиняя её, полагалось вплетать только косоплетку.

Женские украшения

Женские украшения подразделяются на несколько групп.

Среди них были повседневные, которые не снимались даже при выполнении домашней работы - кольца, амулеты, браслеты. Были и нарядные, которые одевали только с праздничным костюмом.

Полный комплект женских украшений почти у всех народов представлен в праздничных и свадебных нарядах..

Для буряток к свадьбе готовили приданое, в том числе и полный комплект украшений. Основным материалом для поделок служило серебро, в большом количестве использовали кораллы (маржаан), янтарь (хуба), малахит (номин) и бирюзу (оюн). В украшениях иркутских буряток, наряду с этими камнями, использовали перламутр (эржин, эрзин) - в виде круглых пластинок или пуговиц.

Средний вес полного женского комплекта бурятки составлял 4 -5 кг.

Ювелирные украшения женских комплектов были выполнены в разной технике. Самой распространенной была техника чеканки, филиграни. Мастеров, работающих в этой технике, называли шаблаад хэдэг дархан. Филигрань могла быть накладной и ажурной.

При накладной филиграни серебро вытягивалась в тонкую ровную проволоку, а затем на нее насекалась украшаемая основа в виде всевозможных узоров. При ажурной филиграни основы не было, рисунок в виде завитков и спирали скреплялся между собой в местах соединения или по краям общей композиции. Украшения изделий вставками из разных камней называется инкрустацией.

Головные украшения

Основным головным украшением является даруулга, или коралловый венок. Основа в виде берестяного обруча, слегка расширяющаяся по верхнему краю, приподнятая на лицевой стороне, обтягивается материей, чаще всего темно-синего цвета. На неё нашиваются в три ряда полудрагоценные камни - кораллы, янтарь, лазурит, изредка встречается белый камень. В центре среднего ряда пришивается самый крупный камень, слева и справа от него располагаются другие, по убывающей величине. Каждый третий камень при этом выделяется либо цветом, либо размером. Камни верхнего и нижнего рядов одинаковы по размерам.

Даруулга закаменских бурят представлял собой узкую кожаную ленту, обшитую черным бархатом, на которую нашивались коралловые бусины или снизки мелких коралловых бусин тремя рядами гирлянд свисали по обе стороны, обрамляя лоб.

A kind of ornament is yubun - head adornment made of silver or silver-plated plate, elongated spade. He wore girls of marriageable age adults aged 15-16. Once married, the young woman could wear yubun before the birth of their first child. Yubun attached to the braids on the sides (hanshag) and on the top (saazha). Encountered in Buryats Baikal, Barguzin drill.

In the village Altsag Dzhida area remained full sets of headphones, and Plait-temporal jewelry made famous master Dorji Chagdurovym. This entire composition of the coral snizok, silver pendants, lockets - GUU.

Ear Jewelry

Earrings - jewelry worn by women of all nations, nationalities and ages. Small earrings, rings, bracelets women wore every day, they are not removed even when doing homework. Elegant jewelry made of precious materials: gold, silver, decorated with inlays of coral, lapis lazuli, malachite. Large size, heavy weight ornaments worn only on solemn events. According to I. Soktoeva, "almost all of the Buryat jewelry is characterized by enlargement of volumes and ornamentation. Took place and the social stratification of society, where the presence of a richly decorated ornaments allocated rich and famous: the ancient customs of all was to be visible and conspicuous. "

Among all the options very distinguished earrings made Zakamensky masters. The name of the first female chekanschitsy Buryatia Dolgor Loginova associated idea of ​​the oblong earrings with long thin chains ending at the lower ends of the bells. Earrings consist of two parts: the top is decorated with a flower on the back side is soldered a long hook for threading into the hole lobes. The upper part of the hinges is connected to the bottom of a circular disk basis, to which were soldered round rings - ears. They are hanging down five or seven strings with bells. In Zakamensky master Lubsan Tubshinova ends of chains ended with silver beads in the shape of the grains. Elegant, while strict in its proportions, composition completed, they will not leave indifferent any woman in our day.

Temporomandibular pectorals

By the temporomandibular breast ornaments are pendants, which are sewn to the headgear of the temple, and hanging on his chest, covering his face, neck and chest on both sides. At the level of earlobes often ornamented plates were fixed round, which lasted from a few snizok coral beads, ends snizok ended in small coins.
hiihe - suspension. Basis of jewelry - a massive cast eemeg ring (diameter 10-12 cm section). Many chains, snizok beads, jewelry lengthened to 70-75 cm Thus, the entire front smartly clothing was removed.
hiihe-honho - a kind of decoration. It occurs in Kyakhta, Selenga, Zakamensky, Dzhida areas. The basis of it - a ring diameter of 8 cm, but a lighter, more interior space is filled with his date information curls, reminiscent of plant ornament. To him soldered plate with scalloped edges, filigree accents of coral, enamel and malachite. This kind of different kind of necklace with bells - honho. Honho consisted of three plates, two small chains connected by a third, larger. In the short chains to them hung the bells.
hiihe - Moore, typical kudinskih drill. In ehiritskih - necklace with silver circles dangling discs to the level of the waist, beads and coins covered mainly the chest. Basis of jewelry - a round plate - diameter of 5-6 cm with carvings representing the heart-shape. From him were free to come down coral snizki - 9-10 pieces. Intercepted one or two metal (leather) jumpers.
sertebshe - this kind of temporal-chest decoration was common only among Buryats Barguzin. It consisted of a ring (diameter 8 cm) with a flattened side (front) part of which was covered with an embossed pattern, decoration sertebshe long and narrow closed snizkoy coral dropped slightly below shoulder level on the chest (length 22-24 cm).
habiga - long (50 cm) suspension, composed of a bundle of small coral beads, is secured to the base of the temporal girls braid or headdress. Snizki end small coins.

Pectorals

Pectoral hoolopshi consists of five metal plates, gradually heavier from top to bottom, which is the largest of them, an unusual shape. The center circle is surrounded by teeth, between the four major visible four smaller ones, both are situated crosswise, fitting into a square with slightly curved sides. It is found consistently recurring motif combined figures that symbolize the solar disk and the eight directions: four primary and four intermediate.

Modern hoolopshi - silver or gold coin on a chain, which is given by the groom's party at the time of courtship.

For breast ornaments include SUM - amulets, little boxes made of silver, which kept the prayers and religious relics. Goo had regional differences in shape, so in the most favored region Mukhorshibirskiy were round, smooth, GUU, characteristic for Zakamenka semi-oval or square shape, for the Selenga Buryats - rectangular. In Tunka decoration of this kind combined with a double or triple next to a coral necklace and called SUM - hoolobshi. A beautiful example of such a decoration of the master Tunkinsky Bazaar Sadaeva stored in the collections of the Art Museum. Sampilova. Agin Buryat amulets were generally round shape with a diameter of 5 - 8 cm Some products have an oval and rectangular shapes. The front side was covered with an embossed or engraved pattern, the main figure plots were associated with Buddhist symbols.

Goo worn on silk Hudack, lace or strips of cloth, some wear on silver chains. It was mandatory breast ornament of women.

Plait adornments

Plait decorations characterized the age of the woman and the hair were determined. On reaching adulthood (15-16 years), girls were made jewelry - saazha who wore by attaching to the spit, run-flat on the back. Saazha - spinal Plait decoration, it was worn girls of marriageable age with elegant suit and wedding dress. Saazha were of three kinds: shurag saazha - made up of coral beads; tumer saazha - from silver plates with fixed them rare beads, uhen saazha - of silk black.

Jewelry Zakamensk called Buryat - hontuuly - silver cylindrical sealed on one side tops, which were fixed horizontally to the base of the braid. The surface is strewn with coral accents hontuulov symmetrically arranged and concentrated around the larger stones. Hontuuly drilled west of Zakamenka (sat Sanaga, Utatuy, Dalahay, Soaps, Sagaan, Maureen, to Tsakira) differ in their large size compared with a similar decoration of the lower villages - (Khamenei, Burg, Ulekchin, Hurtuga).

Another type of jewelry Plait - boolto - exists in a largely Zakamensk drill. Boolto - Silver semicylindrical cover for the top of the braid, the front decorated with chased ornament mainly of plant origin.

A kind of ornament of married women were Selenga district Cases shebergel braids, sometimes worn with the decoration tuyba. Tuyba an L-shaped metal ornament, the long end of which (rod) was inserted into the hair at the base of the braid and the braid wrapped on top. Visible short end decorated with silver, sometimes gold ball. Decorating tuyba existed only in the Transbaikal Buryats.

Unlike other jewelry shebergel tuyboy with only one or decoration tuyba carried into old age.

Shoulder Jewelry

The jewelery set of young women and girls, and Hori Agin - Buryat included Belt decoration - myreney SUM. His robe was sewn on the shoulders of women, or tank tops. This ornament is a round silver badge of a convex shape, made by stamping. On three sides of annular plates soldered silver loops, which hung snizki double strands of coral, with silk tassels on the ends. Dimensions SUM ranged from 4.5 to 9 cm in diameter.

The lateral side decoration decoration Pair hanzhuurga also included in the scope of the wedding decorations. It was worn by young women and girls. This is a set of several items of jewelry, silver suspended from a circular disk with insertion of coral in the center (so-called garha). Sometimes, instead of a circular disc objects hung on long, thin chains to the figure of a lion. On one side hung tweezers for pulling out splinters, uhochistka (hulhuur, holhibsho), toothpick, needle bed. In the late XIX - early XX centuries in all parts of Transbaikalia and Agin Buryat on a chain or silk cord hung a small woman's knife, and steel. The entire suspension was fixed in the upper garment at the waist, often complemented with silk tassels of red, yellow and green colors.

Decoration Belt

Buryats were utilitarian objects on the belt, which was decorated costume embroidered with a pouch of tobacco (haptarga, habtahan), knife in a leather case. Among these ornaments needle cases (zuuney ger), hollow cylinders, boxes. Needle cases could also be included with a side decoration.

Jewelry Hand

Both men and women wore rings on his hands (behelig). Ring - a sign that has its symbolic expression of all peoples in all cultures. Ring - a circle - the Sun, a symbol of prosperity, giving wealth. At this level, emblematic symbol of immortality and eternity. Ring with stone provided protection depending on the properties of the stone. Wedding ring - a symbol, a vow of fidelity, union. In some cases, the ring passed down from generation to generation, maintaining a kind of energy. In addition to rings worn on the hands of the rings. Men's rings (bulturu) is usually performed in the form of seals, which were deposited at the owner's initials. Rings were made of gold, silver or an alloy close to the silver. Rich men wore them for a few pieces on her finger. Rings ornament - figures prominently protruding frog image (melhy, Baja), the silhouette of a reptile - is the personification of all the earthly world, the later rings - with ornaments of Central Asia, Tibet, India, China, in the form of a lotus flower, in the form of scrolls, closed node ulzy ..

Bracelets - (butaag, ugaabar) worn by women of all classes and ages. They can be worn on both hands. Were different forms of bracelets: semi-circular, round, flat, they were decorated with ornaments, often encrusted with coral, malachite, lapis lazuli and turquoise. Everyday can wear copper bracelets, believing that they help with sprains, muscle tension, or lived.

Ношение серег в ушах, колец, браслетов, цепочек имело в древности магическое значение, которое сейчас практически утратилось. Объясняют это следующим: у каждого человека есть душа, жизненная энергия, которая может уйти из тела. Ночью она находится в волосах или под ногтями, поэтому старые люди даже сейчас запрещают ночью стричь ногти, расчесывать голову или стричься. Душа может покинуть тело через выступающие конечности тела - пальцы рук, ног, мочки ушей, глаза, ноздри, рот. Чтобы «закрыть» эти выходы, вдевали в мочки серьги, как бы «замыкали», на пальцы надевали кольца, но так как на все пальцы не наденешь 10 колец, то «замыкали» всю руку браслетом, на шею надевали цепочку - «замыкались» все отверстия на голове. У некоторых народов продевали кольца в носу, в Индии даже на ногах носили браслеты.

Коралл - самый любимый камень бурят. К нам он попадал через Китай и Монголию как предмет торговли кяхтинских и верхнеудинских купцов. Коралл - это морское или водное дерево, обладает сложным символом, включающим в себя символизм дерева и знак водяной бездны. Красному цвету придавалось большое значение в различных обрядах и действиях магического характера. Ещё в глубокой древности раскрашивали красной охрой наскальные рисунки, изделия из кости и камня. Коралл ассоциируется по цветовой символике с огнем, солнцем, кровью - символами жизненной энергии, тепла, очищения.

Своим приглушенным и вместе с тем насыщенно густым тоном кораллы оживляли матово - белую поверхность серебряных изделий, контрастно выделяясь на фоне чеканного и ажурного узора. Они гармонично сочетаются со смуглым цветом кожи и черными волосами бурятских женщин. Коралловые вставки можно увидеть не только на женских, но и на мужских украшениях как в одиночных гнездах - кастах, так и на проволочных стержнях («спенях»), для чего их просверливали насквозь. В верхней части такой коралл завершается цветочной розеткой, например, на дэнзэ (навершиях шапки), на пуговицах. Многие украшения бурят выполнены из золота или декорированы им.

Чрезмерное увлечение золотыми украшениями и изделиями, как говорили старые буряты, «бэендэ хундэ» (т.е. тяжело для тела, духа). Поэтому носили их редко, в особо торжественных случаях. В быту, в будние дни буряты предпочитали носить серебряные изделия.

Серебро считается национальным металлом бурят. Люди с глубокой древности осознавали что серебро и серебряные сосуды, чаши, кубки обладают способностью к стерилизации пищи и напитков. Вся церковная и дацанская утварь, в которых хранили святую воду, была сделана из серебра. Буряты всех районов именно серебряные (белые) монеты бросали на дно родниковых источников, на обоо, на горных перевалах у бариса.

Серебро - металл, наделенный магической функцией, синоним всего светлого, радостного, символ красоты, богатства, здоровья. В течение многих веков у многих народов серебро было, наряду с золотом, монетарным металлом. Цены на серебро и золото постоянно колеблются. Наиболее почитаемо серебро в Индии, на родине буддизма. В Монголии во времена правления Чингисхана серебряные изделия являлись предметом культа, они ценились дороже золота. Со времени превращения золота в монетарный, а затем в валютный металл, серебро значительно обесценилось. Обладая ценным физическим свойством как высокой электропроводностью, серебро стало незаменимым техническим материалом.

В Бурятии серебро добывали во многих местах. Об этом свидетельствуют многочисленные топонимы, например река, Мунгут в Хоринском районе, в Оке, Тунке, Закамне. В селе Санага Закаменского района есть местность Мyнгэн Добо («Серебряный Холм»). Когда-то в древние времена здесь добывали серебро местные дарханы-чеканщики. С приходом буддизма в Бурятию в 1832 году тут был построен Санагинский дацан и добычу серебра в этом месте запретили. В бурятском героическом эпосе «Гэсэр» слово «серебро», «серебряный» встречается более 200 раз. Применение серебра в эпосе приобретает эстетический характер: дворцы, стены, полы, столы, шлемы, коновязи, оружие, предметы конской упряжи, мужские и женские украшения выполнены из серебра или украшены им.

Источник: http://www.ayaganga.ru